This is one of my favorite surf movies. If you have some time, watch this.
“Chasing Dora” is the story of three California surfers who decided to bring to life an epic challenge thrown down by one of surfing’s greatest stylists, the renowned maverick, Miki Dora, who died in 2002 at age 67. Dora was one of the sport’s iconic figures. He railed against the commercialization of surfing, yet endorsed one of the best-selling surfboard models of the mid-’60s surf boom; he decried competitive surfing, yet still chose to enter some, and floated schemes to promote others; he shunned publicity, yet managed to use the surf media to create an almost mythic persona for himself. “Chasing Dora” takes on one of his radical ideas—that the ultimate test of a truly great surfer would be in a contest for the longest wave ridden, on a self-made wooden board, with no equipment or accessories that stemmed from the industrial age—no plastics, no neoprene suits, no surf leashes.